In wine evaluations, you often come across mentions of “minerality.” But what does minerality in wine really mean? š§ For me, minerality refers to sensations that resemble mineral characteristics, such as the taste of mineral ions in mineral water, a salty taste, acidity, the smell of wet stones, or the smoky aroma of flint. Furthermore, to better appreciate wines, I sometimes research their terroir and then try to taste the wine while recalling and connecting it to those terroir characteristics.
Even wine enthusiasts and wine experts often differ in their perceptions of minerality. Experts predominantly associate minerality with sensory elements such as taste and aroma. They use the term “minerality” to articulate a more specific sensory perception in wine. However, they have done so with varying meanings and definitions. There is disagreement among experts on whether the term pertains to olfaction, gustation, or tactile sensation. In fact, minerality seems to be one of the most diversely interpreted terms among descriptors used to characterize wine.
So, let’s summarize the various concepts and thoughts about minerality that have been discovered so far, and see how minerality can be applied when evaluating wines.
Table of Contents
1. Scientific Perspective on Minerality in Wine
Minerality is most famously associated with wines from Chablis, France. This region features limestone soils formed from ancient marine deposits like shells and coral, occasionally revealing fossilized oysters. It’s no wonder that many say, “When eating oysters, it has to be Chablis!” š¦Ŗš„ What a romantic pairingāwine infused with the essence of primordial shells alongside oysters! This narrative resonates deeply with consumers, providing a beautiful and accessible story to discuss over drinks. When thinking of minerality, people often envision minerals from the earth absorbed by grapes, enriching the wine. While logically appealing and aesthetically pleasing, this perception lacks scientific foundation.
To briefly define, “mineral” generally refers to inorganic substances, yet in wine, “minerality” signifies elusive mineral ions emerging through the strong bond of minerals, often shorthand for mineral nutrients. Vineās roots can only absorb mineral ions dissolved in water, not solid minerals which are in a hard, unbreakable state. Thus, minerals around the root zone aren’t readily absorbed. In fact, most mineral nutrients absorbed by grapes originate not from rocks, but from humus in the soil. Humus refers to decomposed organic matter in soil. Therefore, scientifically speaking, the notion that Chardonnay grapes in Chablis absorb the essence of oysters to express in wine is merely an intriguing imagination of comic artists.
2. Minerality and Terroir
It does seem like minerality is often associated with the soil, particularly in wines from specific terroirs that are known for high minerality. For instance, Chablis with its limestone soils, Mosel with slate soils, and Priorat with its Llicorella soils (a mix of slate and quartz) are examples. This association with soil suggests a broader concept of terroir rather than just focusing on the earth’s mineral content.
Many people express that wines with good acidity also exhibit higher minerality. From this perspective, regions producing wines with high minerality often have cooler climates conducive to optimal grape growth conditions and alkaline soil types. It’s scientifically established that alkaline soils contribute to wines with higher acidity and lower pH levels. Grape varieties also play a role; for instance, Riesling from the Mosel region is known for its pronounced minerality, whereas Scheurebe, planted alongside Riesling, may not exhibit the same level of minerality due to its lower acidity characteristics.
Indeed, minerality in wine isn’t simply about acidity but often encompasses savory flavors that complement acidity, thus contributing to the overall perception of minerality. This concept needs to be considered within the broader environmental context. The flavors in wine are influenced not only by soil composition but also by factors such as temperature, wind patterns, grape growing techniques, and winemaking practices. While it hasn’t been scientifically proven yet, certain components in soil may potentially influence yeast metabolism during fermentation.
3. Elements Contributing to Minerality
Minerality in wine is a sensation that evokes the essence of minerals, yet rocks themselves lack taste or aroma, offering only rough or smooth textures. The “scent of wet rocks after rain” isn’t romantic but rather the volatile compounds released from organic matter deposited by plants onto soil and rocks.
Similarly, the “scent of money” from handling coins isn’t the metallic smell of money but a result of human sweat reacting with coin residues. Our perception of minerals differs greatly from the actual substances.
So, what elements do people attribute to minerality in wine? It remains debated among experts, but common factors emerging from research include certain sensations or components that evoke a mineral-like quality in wine.
(1) Acidity
As mentioned earlier, wines with higher acidity are often perceived to have higher minerality. Regions renowned for wines with high minerality, such as Chablis and the Loire Valley in France, Mosel in Germany, and Wachau in Austria, typically produce wines with high acidity.
However, there is debate over which specific acids contribute to minerality. Some studies suggest paradoxically that wines with higher tartaric acid content may be perceived as having lower minerality compared to those with higher malic acid. Malic acid imparts a sharper acidity, reminiscent of biting into an unripe grape, particularly in grapes grown in cooler climates. Therefore, high acidity from grapes grown in cool climates is often cited as a primary factor contributing to minerality.
(2) Sulfur Dioxide and Sulfur Compounds
Some wine experts attribute reductive aromas created in anaerobic environments as contributing to minerality. Although research results vary, there is ongoing discussion about the connection between sulfur dioxide and sulfur compounds with minerality.
An intriguing study on Chablis suggests that wines produced on the left bank of the Serein River exhibit stronger minerality. This is attributed to higher levels of methanethiol, a sulfur compound that creates aromas reminiscent of shellfish shells. The seven grand cru vineyards in Chablis are all located on the right bank, while wines with perceived minerality are often from lower-ranked vineyards on the left bank. This suggests that methanethiol and its associated aromas may play a role in the minerality perceived in Chablis wines when paired with shellfish dishes, favoring lower-ranked Chablis wines.
Additionally, scents such as flinty or smoky notes are also associated with minerality, linked to sulfur compounds like benzenemethanethiol (BMT). Grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon are known for containing significant amounts of BMT, contributing to the perception of minerality varying by grape variety. This explains what I have experienced with Sancerre dāAntan and its prominent flint minerality š (check out my blog post, Grilled Eel Perfection: Pairing Sancerre DāAntan 2020 and Little Beauty)
(3) Savoriness
Salty taste in wine is sometimes associated with minerality, although wine contains very small amounts of sodium chloride. In reality, the salt we use in cooking contains subtle flavors in addition to its salty taste. Thus, when tasters describe a wine as salty, they may be referring to a more complex array of flavors.
There have been studies associating sodium ions (Na+) with minerality in wine. However, the quantity of these ions present in wine is too small for humans to perceive directly. Therefore, it’s challenging to consider these ions directly influencing wine flavor.
(4) Lack of Fruitiness
Wines lacking fruitiness are sometimes paradoxically evaluated as having higher minerality. This could be because intense fruit flavors can mask subtle mineral components (similarly, oak components can mask minerality). Conversely, compounds like methanethiol found abundantly in left-bank Chablis wines mentioned earlier can overshadow fruitiness and floral aromas in wine. Thus, fruit flavors and minerality in wine can be seen as opposing aspects.
(5) Elegance
Minerality is also said to enhance elegance and finesse in wine. Some tasters even describe this as umami in wine. Using such terms to describe minerality illustrates that minerality is not derived from a single component but rather from a complex and multifaceted sensation. While numerous studies have been published in recent years, ongoing scientific analysis and further research are expected to yield more consistent findings in the future.
4. Minerality: A Useful Descriptor
The terms used to describe the taste of wine are inherently ambiguous. What does it mean when we say the taste is layered with multiple layers? Where exactly does the mid-palate begin and end? What kind of taste is black currant that can be perceived even in wines made from grapes?
Tasting notes inevitably incorporate the subjectivity of the tasters. Therefore, while tasting notes from experts can be useful at times, they can also be difficult to understand. Organizations like the Court of Master Sommeliers recommend using standardized words to express wine, but in reality, using only CMS words can make the notes less interesting. In such cases, terms like minerality can give a more trendy and cool impression, seeming both professional and emotional.
However, the only drawback to such words is that no one defines them precisely, and each person uses them according to their own feelings. It seems that they have at least three to five different meanings, but if you want to find a common point within them, it relates to ‘terroir’. As mentioned earlier, this does not mean literally stones or rocks, but rather the essence of ‘terroir’. Since its first appearance in the 1980s, the frequency of the term “terroir” has gradually declined following the emergence of “minerality.”
Perhaps minerality is a term that is gaining renewed interest in delicate wines that effectively convey the sense of the land, amidst the current dominance of glamorous wines emphasizing fruity flavors and oak notes in wine shops. The term ‘terroir’ itself is somewhat ambiguous, and with its diverse usage in various places these days, perhaps the more familiar term ‘minerality’ has recently emerged anew.
In any case, minerality can be a quite useful word for describing wine. After all, in wine tasting, one’s own sensation of the wine is the most important thing. So, when it comes to conveying a cool feeling like “You know what I mean, right?” it’s hard to find a better word than this one. š¤£